Monday, April 21, 2008

Cafe Mozart

Like most things from the West, Japan's relationship to coffee is extremely complicated. To judge by advertisements of a depressed and exhausted Tommy Lee Jones backed up against a wall and cajoled into holding a can of "Boss" coffee and the iconic jar of "Creap" coffee creamer in every staffroom, it would be easy to assume that Japan's approach to coffee consumption is as twisted and misguided as the seaweed-corn-mayonaise-hotdog pizza from our neighborhood Dominos.




Unlike Korea or China, there are no "tea houses" for socializing on this island, no one brings their ipod or homework to a tea cermoney. Drinking matcha is a solitary and silent experience. In other words, for the coffee house experience in Sendai, you have to suck up your misgivings about corporate ethics and go inside a Starbucks.
Unless you know about Cafe Mozart, which makes Seattle's collection of self conscious hipster cafes look as authentic and pretentious as a Leonard Cohen cover sung by on American Idol.




Friday, April 18, 2008

Marni

Marni is brilliant. The luxe Italian bohemian's answer to the slick sexed up vamps from houses like Gucci or Versace. Their earthy weird pieces make my heart beat a little faster. If aliens wore jewelry, it would look something like this. If Fellini dreamed about necklaces, they would like something like this.




Monday, April 07, 2008

Harajuku Bead Shop

Casey and I spent the last weekend in Tokyo. On a mission to find Milkfed in Harajuku, I stumbled across this amazing jewelry supply shop. Out front was fake moose whose antlers were dripping in chains and jewels and I promptly abandoned my search and got lost in front of a wall of swarovski crystals. The girls who worked there were eager and sweet, taking off their own jewelry to show me how they made it and giving me advice despite our language barrier. I am now obsessed and have spent the better part of the day fantasizing about the necklaces I am going to construct once I get home.





Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Parenting

Some friends of ours, a lovely married couple from Hong Kong, are undergoing the laborous and exhausting process of leaving Japan. Concluding 8 years of missionary service in Japan, they are tying up loose ends while being parents to their 2 infants. Packing up is hard, but packing up in Japan is infinitely more complicated, so I was surprised when my offer to help in anyway with moving was responded with a request to babysit instead.

I worked for 6 months at a children's school nearby my college when I was 18. My approach to day care was very much influenced by my father's approach to raising my brother and I. "Oh, you want to eat the whole tub of ice cream? I'll get you the spoon. In bed? Okay, let's get you a bib." And then I would insist on eating it next to my sleeping mother and drip ice cream all over her pillow. I even talked him out of taking me to the doctor for a week of daily vaccinations (Kuwaiti medicine-don't ask) when I was seven. So when the children I was in charge of serving strictly measured servings of carrots to requested the bag of marshmallows they spied in a partially open cupboard, I was more than happy to break open the bag and oblige.

But I picked up another habit, this from both my parents, a tendency to manipulate by making up scary stories. My parents told me there was a genie (djinn in Arabic) who lived in the crack between two pieces of carpet. At night, the crack would glow red with fire and the genie would come out and confiscate the toys I didn't put away. This wasn't Aladdin's genie but the menacing Islamic variety, and I clearly remember tearfully apologizing to a kidnapped Poppel for my carelessness. And being careful not to piss off the genie further by stepping on his carpet crack.

Whenever I had recess duty, the boys playing outside would kick the ball over the fence and into a rich neighbor's back yard. Shame-faced, I would have to walk over, ring the doorbell, apologize profusely and get told off everytime this happened. Because it was such an ordeal to get the ball back, the boys enjoyed this tremendously and wouldn't waste any time kicking the retrieved ball right back over the fence again. When I took away the ball, they started throwing thier shoes and anything within reach over the fence, laughing their little heads off. After a few days of this, I came back from the neighbor's looking as terrified as I could manage and told them in a whisper that we needed to have a meeting. I explained that the woman next door identified herself as a witch, and told me she is very good with fingerprints. She warned me that from now on, any items thrown over the fence will be examined by her for the offender's little fingerprints. And then she will use her magic to steal the offender's fingerprints and identity, so that when their parents come to collect them, there will be nothing to distinguish them from the other little boys. So their parents won't recognize them but instead go home sad and empty handed, wondering what became of their son. And then the boys will have to live at school forever or something like that.

Anyway, it was very effective. Too good to be true. Nothing went over the fence after that. And they begged me for more stories about the witch next door (and believe me, after my numerous encounters with the woman next door, it didn't require much imagination to think of her as a witch!) The fun lasted until there was a meeting with my supervisors where I was told that the boys were too worked up to go to sleep at night and the parents were questioning the source of their vampire stories. To say my supervisors were unhappy was an understatement, and looking back I marvel at my inability then to see why they were concerned. I was defensive because, after all, this was how I was raised and if the kids were having fun and behaving, then why not?
So tommorow, little Ken and Hitomi will be dropped off. They speak Cantonese and understand some Japanese. Our apartment is currently a moldy radio shack littered with books, bottles and all kinds of wrappers. We have no idea how we are going to entertain them. All we have going for us is a bag of cheerios and Casey's "helicopter" rides. Maybe it is a good thing we can't tell stories in their language because Casey's imagination is much darker and I suspect his "parenting" approach isn't too far off from mine.